Every summer, Pasquale sees me. He has, ever since I was a kid. But I doubt he still recognizes me as that little boy with the high-pitched voice, racing around on his bike. Time has blurred that image, but not him. To me, Pasquale has always been the same: an old man sitting in the shade of a eucalyptus tree, reading his Bible. The wind moves the leaves above him—strong today, who knows about tomorrow? He never seemed young, and he never really grew older. Like the small roadside shrine just outside the camping grounds, he exists in a space that is neither here nor there, a quiet stop between everything and nothing.


That altar is on the way to the sea. I’ve taken that path in so many ways—carried in my father’s arms, running alone, falling, walking late at night, rushing in broad daylight. It always led to the same place: a tiny beach with clay, rocks, and inflatable boats resting on the shore. A small strip of sand I’ve always called a beach, even though every year, there’s less and less of it.

I don’t remember the last time I said, “See you at the ping-pong table.” It used to be somewhere else, a gathering spot, the meeting point every night. That’s where we’d decide what to do, where to go. There was an old freezer—the kind that bars use for ice cream. We’d sit on it, watching others play with battered paddles, some missing their handles. Then, we'd head into town, which looks different now, but feels the same. The square with Uccialì’s statue hasn’t changed. The newsstand that sells bait hasn’t moved an inch, still stocking the same silly postcards I used to laugh at but never dared to buy.




Not far from there, the Aragonese castle stands, its tiny beach battered by the wind. I’ve never swum there. That’s not my sea. My place is down that dirt road, by that shrinking strip of sand. It’s the only sea I trust, gentle and blue, cradled in a small bay. It begins where my memories begin, fixed in time like Pasquale, the altar, the ping-pong table, the town, and the figure of my mother, slowly wading into the water until she becomes nothing more than a distant speck on the horizon.

